Thursday, September 14, 2017

Leaving Michigan…


September 11, 2017

Leaving Michigan…

Duluth, Minnesota

As we left the hotel this morning, we noticed a group of government workers preparing to go out with trucks and trailers that had pictures and  text describing
the evils visited on the Great Lakes fish populations by sea lampreys. I had never heard of a sea lamprey before; however, Robin had, as his first major in college was biology.  Robin talked to one of the biologists who said they were using poison to try to kill the young lampreys (they are really ugly!). He said that these things got into the Lakes when the Welland Ship Canal was built to bypass Niagara Falls. The mouths of these lampreys are suction cups, and they attach themselves to the sides of the prey and suck their insides out. 



I















We thought we were heading to Duluth; however, later we found we turned the wrong way on the road—it was going west and so were we, so we assumed it was the road west.  After a few minutes we saw a sign that read, “End of the Earth, 2 miles.”  We realized we were indeed at the end of our road when it led us up to a little hut and a young park ranger asked if we had our state park pass.  “Ah, no, isn’t this the way to Duluth?”  He smiled, as if lots of people make that mistake, and sent us back the way we had come and instructed us to turn away from the lake.  We asked him where End of the Earth was, and he laughed.  He said it was a joke—two rangers came up with it and they had a sign made.
The house at the End of the Earth


Okay.  Got that.  We headed back to find our road with a stop at the Wilderness Gift Shop on the way—a cute little cabin with wall-to-wall souvenirs and shirts and honey and junk. I am not a shopper, and too much stuff confuses me.  We did make a few purchases and went on our way.
Flowerbox at the Wilderness Gift Shop



One of our plans was to take a little side trip to visit the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, so, as we headed north along the peninsula, we listened to Charles Kuralt’s Life on the Road.  He spins such wonderful stories.  I’d read the book and listened to the tapes before, and they never get old.  In fact, one of my dreams was to go on the road with him when I was younger with visions of becoming a journalist and before he died.  He was a journalist extraordinaire, reporting on the ordinary and finding a story in everything and everybody. 

The Lakeshore Visitors Center was closed, and much of the Park is offshore, but we rode through parts we could get to and photographed some of the sand dunes there.

When the audio book ended, and I was driving back along the lake, Robin got out his harmonica and played some nostalgic tunes, ones that only a harmonica can create.

Beyond the end of the road in Michigan, we spent what seemed like only a few minutes in Superior, Wisconsin, and landed in Duluth, Minnesota for the night, right across the street from the ever-present lake.

Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Celebrating the day!


September 10, 2017

Celebrating the day!

Silver City, Michigan

Robin and I celebrated our 34th anniversary today by doing what we love—exploring new places and having adventures.  We left Munising for Silver City, but not before we backtracked a bit to see Alger Falls—a gently gushing waterfall right on the side of the highway.  I love the sound of falling water.  What a treasure, and we didn’t have to walk a mile or two over a rutted trail to see it. 














Flowers along the street in Christmas, MI


After that, we headed to the Navigator restaurant in town for breakfast, overlooking the lake.  Up here, almost everything overlooks the lake. In fact, we picked our route because it hugs the lake. 
A last look at Pictured Rocks beyond Grand Island



Even if our road veers away from it, it shows up unexpectedly.  We enjoyed some vivid red trees poking above and out of the forest as we rode along, and we had a little side excursion up the Keweenaw Peninsula.


Color!


We had found Silver City online—it had a hotel, it was on the way to our next destination, and we liked the name.  When we googled the area for hotels, many popped up.  What we didn’t realize is that most were within a 50-mile radius of Silver City.  When we arrived in Silver City, we discovered that there was neither a city nor any silver!  It was a nice chain hotel with kind of a lake view and a restaurant on the premises—the only restaurant anywhere within miles.  In fact, the only other retail business was a Wilderness Gift Shop across the street. 

We had been chasing a “lake sunset,” one where the orange disk sinks into the horizon, for several days and at last had our opportunity, except that Silver City is dominated by the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness area just to the west of “town.”  As the light faded, we raced back east to escape the mountain’s shadow. Most of this part of the Lake Superior shoreline is privately held and forested, so getting access proved an added difficulty, but eventually, just in time, we found a small park with a beach! We couldn’t escape the cloud bank in the west, but still saw a nice sunset over the lake.




We had our anniversary dinner right there in Silver City at Porky’s Pub & Grub, named for the Porcupine Mountains.  Nothing fancy but we were there and together and enjoying our adventure. Robin had Walleye for the first time (imported from Canada because it’s illegal to sell “game fish” from Michigan). He says they are in the James River at home in Richmond, and he’s going fishing when we get back! Oh, boy!

408 months of blissful togetherness and adventuring, as Kerry says, “exchanging information.”

Monday, September 11, 2017

A trip back in time…



September 9, 2017

A trip back in time…

Munising, Michigan

By the shores of Gitche Gumee

By the shining Big-Sea-Water…

                                                from “The Song of Hiawatha”

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow


What a day we have had!  Driving, hiking, taking pictures, meeting up with strange birds (?) and deer, but no moose, and reminiscing.  
Lighthouse in Munising

Over 30 years ago, Robin and I drove along a gravel road lined with birch trees that created a canopy over the road for about 70 miles—just for the adventure because it was right along the lakeshore.  Yesterday we started at the other end—on Michigan 58 in Munising—and drove about 50 miles east on the same path, only it is now a paved, two-lane road.  The road has been widened and many of the birch trees are missing; however, it was a trip back in time and we were mostly alone. 

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, the first U.S. national lakeshore, extends 40 miles along Lake Superior on this road.  How I remember those cliffs of Pictured Rocks rising above the green water of the lake back then—an example of the erosive action of wind, waves, and ice.  The only way to get to the cliffs is by boat or foot, and it’s a very long trail to get there.  Today we had a hefty downhill hike just to reach a distant overlook for photography purposes.  

Pictured Rocks

On the trail

Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks




Miner's Castle

Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks





As a child, I often heard my dad quoting Longfellow, his favorite poet—“The Village Blacksmith,” “The Psalm of Life,” and “The Song of Hiawatha.”  He told me that “Gitche Gumee” was Lake Superior.  The cliffs at Pictured Rocks were from this poem.  Hiawatha National Forest is all around us here in this area of Michigan.  Robin and I tent camped there many years ago in a pine forest.

Every time I stand beside this Great Lake, I hear my dad’s voice, “By the shores of Gitche Gumee….”  He never saw this water, and I know he would be excited that I would go looking for it.  We heard today that every time we look out over the world’s largest fresh water lake, we are viewing 1/10 of the world’s fresh water.  They say that all of the other Great Lakes—Michigan, Huron, Erie, and Ontario with two extra Lake Eries--could fit into Superior. 



Flow into Superior


Au Sable Lighthouse

Sable Dune


Au Sable Lighthouse







As we moved through the day, we stopped at Sable Falls.  If you have ever been in our family room, you might have noticed an enlarged, framed picture of waterfalls that I took years ago while hanging precariously from a small tree over this same rushing water.  This time the approach to the falls seemed steeper, and there were hundreds of steps getting down there to its base.  Oh, and there were no little trees from which to hang!
Steps to Sable Falls
Sable Falls (the picture in our family room - 30+ years later)
We turned around at Grand Marais and took the same road back.  
Old Grand Marais


 As always, we kept our eyes out for moose—we are terrible at finding moose.  We did encounter a deer family along the way and several unusual birds along the road—big gray birds with very long necks, maybe some sort of crane or goose, and they waddled along reminding me of Abigail and Amelia, the geese in the movie The Aristocats; however, they did not wear bonnets.  It was a lovely day of reminiscing and discovering new things.
 

Back in the ‘80s I encountered a menu item at Matt’s Irish Pub in Shockoe Slip in Richmond—a Cornish pasty.  Northern Michigan is the only other place we’ve had pasties besides Richmond.  It is basically a wrapped meat pie—it contains small chunks of beef, carrots, onions, rutabaga, and potatoes, all wrapped in pie dough and baked.  Robin and I split an order of pasties in Mackinaw City the other night, and I ended up eating the insides of the “pie.”  Tonight I ordered just one while Robin enjoyed the fried lake perch.  As we move on next week to Minnesota, we’ll see if pasties are available there.  The story behind the pasties is that miners in Cornwall, England, would take meat pies for their lunch to the mines. When they immigrated to Northern Michigan, they continued the habit of taking pasties in their lunches.  All along the Upper Peninsula, we have seen signs in the small towns that read “Pasties Here” in front of small eating places, and we have found them on many menus.

Yesterday I talked about the people who lived below the Bridge being called “trolls” by those who live in the Upper Peninsula.  Today I found out that those in the Upper Peninsula are known as “Yoopers” (UPers).

Tomorrow we are continuing west.  We have a reservation in a place called Silver City, right on the lake.  To be continued…