Monday, September 11, 2017

A trip back in time…



September 9, 2017

A trip back in time…

Munising, Michigan

By the shores of Gitche Gumee

By the shining Big-Sea-Water…

                                                from “The Song of Hiawatha”

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow


What a day we have had!  Driving, hiking, taking pictures, meeting up with strange birds (?) and deer, but no moose, and reminiscing.  
Lighthouse in Munising

Over 30 years ago, Robin and I drove along a gravel road lined with birch trees that created a canopy over the road for about 70 miles—just for the adventure because it was right along the lakeshore.  Yesterday we started at the other end—on Michigan 58 in Munising—and drove about 50 miles east on the same path, only it is now a paved, two-lane road.  The road has been widened and many of the birch trees are missing; however, it was a trip back in time and we were mostly alone. 

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, the first U.S. national lakeshore, extends 40 miles along Lake Superior on this road.  How I remember those cliffs of Pictured Rocks rising above the green water of the lake back then—an example of the erosive action of wind, waves, and ice.  The only way to get to the cliffs is by boat or foot, and it’s a very long trail to get there.  Today we had a hefty downhill hike just to reach a distant overlook for photography purposes.  

Pictured Rocks

On the trail

Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks




Miner's Castle

Pictured Rocks

Pictured Rocks





As a child, I often heard my dad quoting Longfellow, his favorite poet—“The Village Blacksmith,” “The Psalm of Life,” and “The Song of Hiawatha.”  He told me that “Gitche Gumee” was Lake Superior.  The cliffs at Pictured Rocks were from this poem.  Hiawatha National Forest is all around us here in this area of Michigan.  Robin and I tent camped there many years ago in a pine forest.

Every time I stand beside this Great Lake, I hear my dad’s voice, “By the shores of Gitche Gumee….”  He never saw this water, and I know he would be excited that I would go looking for it.  We heard today that every time we look out over the world’s largest fresh water lake, we are viewing 1/10 of the world’s fresh water.  They say that all of the other Great Lakes—Michigan, Huron, Erie, and Ontario with two extra Lake Eries--could fit into Superior. 



Flow into Superior


Au Sable Lighthouse

Sable Dune


Au Sable Lighthouse







As we moved through the day, we stopped at Sable Falls.  If you have ever been in our family room, you might have noticed an enlarged, framed picture of waterfalls that I took years ago while hanging precariously from a small tree over this same rushing water.  This time the approach to the falls seemed steeper, and there were hundreds of steps getting down there to its base.  Oh, and there were no little trees from which to hang!
Steps to Sable Falls
Sable Falls (the picture in our family room - 30+ years later)
We turned around at Grand Marais and took the same road back.  
Old Grand Marais


 As always, we kept our eyes out for moose—we are terrible at finding moose.  We did encounter a deer family along the way and several unusual birds along the road—big gray birds with very long necks, maybe some sort of crane or goose, and they waddled along reminding me of Abigail and Amelia, the geese in the movie The Aristocats; however, they did not wear bonnets.  It was a lovely day of reminiscing and discovering new things.
 

Back in the ‘80s I encountered a menu item at Matt’s Irish Pub in Shockoe Slip in Richmond—a Cornish pasty.  Northern Michigan is the only other place we’ve had pasties besides Richmond.  It is basically a wrapped meat pie—it contains small chunks of beef, carrots, onions, rutabaga, and potatoes, all wrapped in pie dough and baked.  Robin and I split an order of pasties in Mackinaw City the other night, and I ended up eating the insides of the “pie.”  Tonight I ordered just one while Robin enjoyed the fried lake perch.  As we move on next week to Minnesota, we’ll see if pasties are available there.  The story behind the pasties is that miners in Cornwall, England, would take meat pies for their lunch to the mines. When they immigrated to Northern Michigan, they continued the habit of taking pasties in their lunches.  All along the Upper Peninsula, we have seen signs in the small towns that read “Pasties Here” in front of small eating places, and we have found them on many menus.

Yesterday I talked about the people who lived below the Bridge being called “trolls” by those who live in the Upper Peninsula.  Today I found out that those in the Upper Peninsula are known as “Yoopers” (UPers).

Tomorrow we are continuing west.  We have a reservation in a place called Silver City, right on the lake.  To be continued…

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